The Crispy Egg Dish I Learned at the Zuni Café

As an out-of-work sous chef, my home refrigerator has been stocked more than ever.

Between staff meals (like Wednesday’s fried chicken and “hand-picked” salads gleaned from the line cooks’ stations) and always seeking out the latest spots here in San …

As an out-of-work sous chef, my home refrigerator has been stocked more than ever.

Between staff meals (like Wednesday’s fried chicken and “hand-picked” salads gleaned from the line cooks' stations) and always seeking out the latest spots here in San Francisco (like Nari and Verjus), I admit that not much home cooking happened pre–COVID-19. But now, my kitchen has become my escape, my oasis, my space to reflect about my relationship with food—without the structure of a restaurant kitchen.

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