I’m a Professional Chef, Finally Giving Myself a Break in the Kitchen

Now more than ever, home is where many of us are seeking refuge and solace in light of the novel coronavirus. This is a tough time, but we’re here for you—whether it’s a new pantry recipe or a useful tip for your kitchen, here are some ideas to make th…

Now more than ever, home is where many of us are seeking refuge and solace in light of the novel coronavirus. This is a tough time, but we’re here for you—whether it’s a new pantry recipe or a useful tip for your kitchen, here are some ideas to make things run a little more smoothly for you and your loved ones.


I haven’t been counting the days of social distancing. But for weeks, I’ve been at home, stretching pantry ingredients, and cooking every meal from scratch. Using leftover semolina to make fresh pasta, digging in my freezer to find a piece of meat that I can braise with dried beans, and boiling that bag of wild rice that's been in my pantry for years.

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A Gateway Fresh Pasta for Those Who Want the Project, but Not the Fuss

When I want fresh, homemade pasta—but don’t want the fuss of an elaborate cooking project—I turn to my favorite Sardinian pasta shape: malloreddus (1). Also known as gnocchetti sardi, this shape requires neither a rolling pin nor a hand crank, and the …

When I want fresh, homemade pasta—but don’t want the fuss of an elaborate cooking project—I turn to my favorite Sardinian pasta shape: malloreddus (1). Also known as gnocchetti sardi, this shape requires neither a rolling pin nor a hand crank, and the process of making them is so simple that it can become a truly relaxing, even meditative, cooking project.

Most traditional fresh pastas are made using eggs and finely ground white flour. The malloreddus dough, on the other hand, is comprised of water and durum wheat semolina flour. If you don’t have a lot of experience making homemade pasta, then this eggless malloreddus dough is perfect practice because it’s exceedingly forgiving and utterly affordable.

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You’ve Been Taught to Braise This Way Your Whole Life. Here’s a Step You Can Skip.

There are times when lazy cooking and delicious cooking overlap. They don’t always overlap, but when they do, it’s glorious. The Venn diagram of this relationship would show lazy cooking as one circle, delicious cooking as another circle, and firmly in…

There are times when lazy cooking and delicious cooking overlap. They don’t always overlap, but when they do, it’s glorious. The Venn diagram of this relationship would show lazy cooking as one circle, delicious cooking as another circle, and firmly inside their small shared overlap, “slow weekend braises.”

In order to achieve peak laziness alongside peak deliciousness, the trick is to know which rules are essential and which can be ignored with impunity.

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What Is an Egg Cream, Anyway?

A well-made chocolate egg cream is hard to find. The beverage was invented by Louis Auster in 1980, and remained popular throughout the early 20th century. Famously containing neither eggs nor cream, the sweet treat was once poured freely by soda jerks…

A well-made chocolate egg cream is hard to find. The beverage was invented by Louis Auster in 1980, and remained popular throughout the early 20th century. Famously containing neither eggs nor cream, the sweet treat was once poured freely by soda jerks in candy stores throughout Bay Ridge and the Lower East Side of Manhattan in New York City. Recently, it’s been popping up on menus as a relic of the past or a novelty; but, if you order it, odds are you will be disappointed with the taste. Not many people know how to make it well anymore—egg creams often come out too chocolatey, too watery, too thin-tasting.

what is an egg cream?

When made correctly, a chocolate egg cream is made with cold, whole milk, chocolate syrup, and seltzer water in just the right proportions. Not eggs or cream. Not chocolate milk or ice cream. Too much chocolate results in a drink that's cloyingly sweet. Too much seltzer from the soda fountain, and the drink will taste diluted, a bubbly embodiment of disappointment. An egg cream is the perfect balance of sweetness, richness, and effervescence. And a very good egg cream is a frothy, refreshing treat. As for why it’s called “egg cream?” Auster’s grandson, Stanley Auster, has one theory: That the name had simply gotten mangled over time. The drink had been originally called “echt” (or “genuine, real” in Yiddish) cream, as in “good cream,” but somehow “egg” had stuck.

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When It Comes to Okra, ‘Crispy-Soft’ Is the Best Texture

A few years ago, on a whim, I bought some okra from a local farmers market. It was too pristine to pass up, unblemished and deeply green. I ended up tossing the whole okra pods in oil and salt and grilling them quickly over high heat. They tasted like …

A few years ago, on a whim, I bought some okra from a local farmers market. It was too pristine to pass up, unblemished and deeply green. I ended up tossing the whole okra pods in oil and salt and grilling them quickly over high heat. They tasted like a cross between blistered shishito peppers and grilled zucchini. A perfect lazy summertime snack.

Some folks avoid okra because it releases a slimy texture when it’s cut into pieces and cooked slowly. However, if you buy okra pods that are small and crisp, and you cook them whole using high heat, the texture isn’t slimy at all. In fact, grilled okra is so enjoyable that it can easily become a mainstay ingredient in your repertoire.

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