For many grade schoolers, a blue-foil–wrapped bar of sticky-sweet Rice Krispies Treats is a lunchbox treasure. But unfortunately for my parents, I was a bit more discerning (aka annoying) than most kids my age. When I was eight, for example, I cried because my parents wouldn't let me order shrimp scampi at a restaurant. So the marshmallow snack they’d slip into my school lunch—never quite did it for my savory-seeking taste buds.
More recently, when I began to think about developing a recipe for my own High Holiday dessert, I had a devious idea of how to bend this bakesale staple into the saltier, more savory directions I crave. The key ingredient is a Jewish pantry staple: schmaltz.
Schmaltz is the Yiddish word for rendered poultry fat, most commonly chicken. The golden fat is packed with flavor and a warming richness that is the backbone of the best chicken soup and matzo balls. Many Jewish cooks wisely add diced onions partway through rendering to impart a subtle caramelly sweetness to the fat, which I was confident would act as the perfect bridge between the salty and sweet flavors here.
Finally, and maybe most importantly, after making and straining the schmaltz using this basic method, you are left with the strained crispy chicken skin and onions, called gribenes in Yiddish. And though it may cause a few bubbes to clutch their pearls, I was all too excited to fold those cracklings into the cereal mixture.
After testing a bunch of other mix-ins in the hopes that I could pack in even more comforting flavors of a Rosh Hashanah roast, I settled on adding another big part of Jewish-American culinary culture: Lipton Onion Soup Mix, often lovingly called "Jewish MSG." Ashkenazi cooks like my grandma tear open the paper packet of brown-gray powder and dried onion to use in everything from a dry rub for brisket to casseroles and, of course, soup.
The slightly artificial, capital-O onion flavor from the mix helps to multiply the allium flavor and richness from the fried onions in the schmaltz. That flavor amplification is also in no small part due to the ample amount of actual MSG the mix contains.
For extra credit, and since you'll have some time to kill while you wait for the schmaltz to render, I call for you to toast the Rice Krispies in the oven, greatly improving their texture when folded with the melty marshmallows and adding some welcome nuttiness to this more complex flavor profile. All of this effort results in what may just be the platonic ideal of a salty-meets-sweet treat.
Also! Should you desire to take this dessert even further, you can add some other things inspired by Jewish classics. In my tests, I was particularly partial to mixing in some everything bagel seasoning or minced dried apricots. One of them drives the treats even farther into savory territory, the other nudges it more towards sweet—you know your preferences so go with whichever sounds best to you.
Using a very sharp knife or good kitchen shears, cut chicken skin and fat into roughly 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces (if using a knife, it helps to freeze the skin and fat for 30 minutes before cutting).
In a large nonstick skillet, combine chicken skin and fat with enough water to barely cover. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, until the water has entirely evaporated and the chicken has just started to turn brown, about 1 hour. Add diced onion and cook, stirring often, until the onion is golden and the chicken skin has crisped and is thoroughly browned, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 325°F (160°C) and set racks in upper- and lower-middle positions. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper, then divide rice krispies between them and spread in an even layer. Toast in the oven, stirring with a silicone spatula every 3 minutes, until evenly golden brown, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl and strain the chicken fat through it; you should have about 1/2 cup of schmaltz. Transfer the gribenes (crispy skin and onions) to a paper towel–lined plate and season with a pinch of salt. Let cool (if some pieces are too large, you can further chop them now).
Line 2-quart baking dish (see Special Equipment, below) with parchment overhanging the 2 long sides and coat with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. In a large (6-quart) pot, heat 6 tablespoons schmaltz over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add onion soup mix and the 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until the dried onion pieces have turned golden, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add marshmallows and cook, stirring with a silicone spatula and scraping the bottom and sides of the pot, until marshmallows have melted, between 2 and 4 minutes depending on the size of marshmallows.
Fold in Rice Krispies and reserved gribenes until thoroughly combined. If desired, stir in the everything bagel seasonings or dried apricots.
Transfer mixture to the prepared baking dish and press into an even layer. Let cool until fully set, at least 30 minutes. To portion, use the parchment to transfer Rice Krispy treats to a work surface, then discard parchment. Use a serrated knife to cut into your desired size and shape.
Notes
Chicken skin and fat can either be collected over time from chicken trimmings and kept in the freezer, or purchased directly from a butcher (if going to a butcher, it helps to call a day ahead to request them to save fat and skin trimmings).
Special Equipment
Roughly 2-quart baking dish or pan (various dimensions of baking dish will work, including a 9- by 13-inch baking dish, or an 8-inch square cake pan).
Make-Ahead and Storage
The bars can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.