I grew up in Santa Ana, California on First and Bristol Street right behind El Toro Meat Market. A staple in the community, el super offered not only meat, but fresh tortillas, masa, harder-to-find Mexican produce (like tejocotes or guanabanas), and—most importantly—a very stocked cheese counter that never failed to bring me (and my belly) great joy.
Behind the glass, there’d be crumbly rounds of queso fresco—a creamy, fresh, mildly salty cheese, perfect for breaking up and scattering over flautas, frijoles de olla, or baked in a chile relleno. And, the slightly drier, firmer queso cotija—saltier but still mild, perfect for dusting onto sopes, huaraches, and refried beans.