Chicken-fried catfish
For years, I’ve had the notion of chicken-fried catfish on my mind. While typically, I eat my fried catfish dredged in a cornmeal coating, I wondered if treating the fish…
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Sausage queso, Tex-Italian style
When I was making plans to visit Lubbock, a friend gave me some advice. “Go to Orlando’s Italian restaurant, and order the mafia queso,” she said. “It’s outstanding.” Lubbock, Texas…
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Tex-Mex enchilada beans
A few years ago, Deb Perelman of the Smitten Kitchen blog introduced the world to a dish she called pizza beans. It was a pan of beans baked with tomato…
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Green chile pork and pinto bean stew
At the Indianapolis 500 race in 1970, Texas and New Mexico were pitted against each other, both on the track and off. In the lineup of drivers was Lloyd Ruby…
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Garlic rosemary beef ribs
Over the past year, as I’ve been learning to cook meat on a smoker, I’ve had the revelation that smoking meat is not much different from cooking meat in an…
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Chicken soup with rice, Dallas style
My hairdresser asked me why I lived in Dallas. “You’re not like most of the Dallasites I know,” he said. “In fact, when I first met you, I figured you’d…
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Nantucket cranberry pie
In 1992, Gourmet Magazine published one of Laurie Colwin’s final recipe columns. The novelist and food writer had died unexpectedly a few months before, and they were coming close to…
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Jalapeño popper kolaches
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Table salsa, North Houston style
If you’ve ever been to Soto’s Cantina in the North Houston suburb of Cypress, then you may be familiar with their table salsa. It’s a blend of chunky tomatoes, peppers,…
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Shrimp scampi
“Please pick up some linguine,” said my friend Jeff as my friends and I headed to a grocery store in the Florida Panhandle. “And get two pounds of local Gulf…
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King Ranch hominy casserole
There are several ways to make a cheesy, creamy hominy casserole, and my grandma’s is the simplest method of all. While some recipes have you make a roux and others…
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Apple crisp with green chiles
While my grandma was a cobbler person, somehow my mom turned into a crisp person. Instead of a buttery, flaky crust on top of a sweet and thick fruit filling,…
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