Madeleines

With whisper thin, crisp exteriors, light-yet-buttery centers, and those signature humps, these are madeleines that Proust would be proud of.

Overhead view of madeleines in box
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

My mom has a soft spot for packaged baked goods. Growing up, a trip to the grocery store wasn’t complete without picking up a box of Entenmann’s chocolate chip cookies or Little Bites fudge brownies. These days, her kitchen counter is still littered with sweets, from Costco rugelach to Stop & Shop muffins. It was during one of my trips home that I came across individually wrapped madeleines from Costco. 

Although its true origins remain unclear to this day, these petite, shell-shaped cakes are associated with the town of Commercy, located in the Lorraine region in northeastern France, and have been immortalized in Marcel Proust’s novel In Search of Lost Time, in which Proust recounts a childhood memory of dipping a madeleine in his tea. 

Curious, I bit into one and found that the fluted cake was a poor replica of the real thing, with an off-putting, squishy texture and a lackluster flavor to boot. Freshly baked madeleines, still warm from the oven, should have whisper thin, crisp exteriors, light-yet-buttery centers, and that signature bump (often called “the hump”) sitting proudly on top. When paired with a cup of tea, you have the solid makings of a late afternoon snack.

Close up of madeleines
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Madeleines are extremely versatile―the batter can be flavored with nuts, cocoa powder, warm spices, citrus zest, herbs, and extracts. Once baked, they can be glazed, filled, or served up plain. For my recipe, I kept it simple, relying on the sugar and butter to provide the flavor and aroma of the madeleines. If you have it, I recommend using quality butter, like a European-style one, for a richer flavor. You can also play around with adding fresh lemon or orange zest and vanilla or almond extract for another layer of flavor. 

You may notice that these cakes come together rather differently than other recipes you’ll find online. Since madeleines are a form of sponge cake, they rely on the power of eggs and a little baking powder to rise. I ran side-by-side tests, making madeleines following the more traditional genoise cake method―whipping eggs and sugar into a stable foam, then folding in the dry ingredients, followed by melted butter―and a unconventional method I picked up from a New York Times recipe that calls for whisking the dry ingredients together, including the sugar, followed by the eggs and butter. I discovered that the results were nearly identical, but I preferred the latter method, which I call for below, since it involves less work and doesn’t require a stand mixer. The batter goes into the refrigerator to chill for four hours, which helps hydrate the ingredients and lets the flavors meld. 

To bake the madeleines, I grease a 12-cup nonstick madeleine pan with melted butter (you can also use cooking spray), then use a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop to portion out the batter. It takes a bit of trial and error to make sure each cup is filled with just the right amount, since overfilling the cup—even by a smidge—diminishes the hump. If you want to be precise, you can also use a scale when dividing up the batter, which I like to do to ensure the most success. 

Close up view of madeleines in a box
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

The madeleines first go in the oven at a higher temperature of 425°F to encourage an initial rise, which I’ve found contributes to larger humps, before reducing the temperature to 400°F for the rest of the bake. After I pull them from the oven, I immediately turn them out of the pan onto a wire rack to cool, since letting them cool even slightly in the pan increases stickage. (If any of the madeleines refuse to budge, use a small offset spatula to help slide them out.) The magic of a freshly baked madeleine can be especially fleeting, so you won’t want to wait too long before helping yourself to one (or three!) next to a cup of tea—in the style of Proust, of course.

In a medium bowl, thoroughly whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt, about 30 seconds. Add eggs and vanilla extract, if using, and whisk until a thick batter forms, about 30 seconds. Add butter and whisk until fully incorporated and batter is smooth and slightly shiny, about 1 minute. Cover bowl with plastic wrap (or transfer to an airtight container) and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days. 

Overhead view of 4 image collage of mixing dry ingredients, adding egg, and whisking until a silky batter forms.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Using a pastry brush, grease a 12-cup nonstick madeleine pan with melted butter. Using a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or measuring spoon, add 20g (slightly more than 1 tablespoon) of batter into the center of each cup. The batter will spread as it bakes.

Side angle of scooping batter into madeleine tin
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Bake madeleines for 3 minutes then reduce oven temperature to 400°F (205°C). Continue to bake until madeleines are domed in the center and golden brown around the edges, about 8 minutes.

Puffed madeleines in tin
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Remove madeleines from oven and immediately invert the hot pan over a wire rack, gently rapping the pan to release the madeleines. (Letting the madeleines cool even slightly in the pan will make it difficult to remove them from the pan.) Flip madeleines over so that the shell pattern is on the bottom and let cool slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Flipping tin onto wire rack
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

12-cup nonstick madeleine pan, 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or measuring spoon, digital scale, wire rack

Note

You can flavor the madeleines with almond extract and/or 1 to 2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon or orange zest.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The batter can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated for up to 2 days. 

Madeleines are best enjoyed on the same day they’re baked.

Croquembouche

A towering masterpiece of caramel-covered cream puffs surrounded by golden threads of spun sugar, the croquembouche is the celebration cake of France.

Crouquemboche
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve made a croquembouche―the celebration cake in France that’s served at weddings, baptisms, and first communions. I made my first croquembouche (which literally translates as “crunch in mouth”) back in culinary school for a demonstration to promote recipes from pastry chef Joanne Chang’s cookbook Flour, Too. Her croquembouche was a towering masterpiece of caramel-covered cream puffs surrounded by golden threads of spun sugar. Although the tall, pointed cone shape is most popular (and the one I adhere to), the puffs can be arranged to resemble churches, wishing wells, and even baby carriages, depending on the occasion. Croquembouches can also be decorated with sugar-coated almonds, sugar flowers, candied fruit, nougatine (caramel mixed with toasted nuts), and macarons, not to mention whatever other decorative flights of fancy one might have for a dessert whose appeal is largely about its presentation. 

My later croquembouches, all of which I assembled while developing this recipe, couldn’t compare; one was much too short (I miscounted the number of puffs in my initial layers) while another was so wonky that it looked like it came out of a Dr. Seuss book. The croquembouche you see here was my most recent and one that I’m very proud of. That’s because croquembouche is one of the more difficult pastries to make at home, thanks to its multiple components and the time needed to get it all done. I share a few techniques that make the process as seamless as possible but I want to stress that, in this case, practice makes perfect. This is all to say that your first croquembouche may not look quite like the one pictured here, but it’ll be delicious nonetheless. 

Making the Cream Puffs

A croquembouche relies on puffs―a lot of them―made from pâte à choux, which is a cooked paste of flour, butter, water and/or milk, and eggs. My recipe calls for one batch of choux pastry made with equal parts water and milk, which contributes to a crisp well-browned exterior. I also add a small amount of sugar to the choux to lightly sweeten it. When testing this recipe, I mostly played around with the dimensions of the puffs to figure out which size led to a stronger, more aesthetically-pleasing structure. Puffs that were with a template that was one-and-a-half inches in diameter were much too large, giving me a squatter croquembouche that wasn’t very impressive. Meanwhile, puffs that were just an inch round barely held any filling, making for a croquembouche that was all crunch. I found that one-and-a-quarter–inch puffs were the ideal size, striking a good balance between creamy filling and crunchy candy shell. I know that a quarter-inch difference may not seem like much, but when dealing with a towering construction like this, it adds up. 

Pipping croquembouche
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Piping the choux for a croquembouche requires a bit of advance planning. Usually when I pipe puffs, I’ll freehand it but in the case of a croquembouche, you shouldn’t wing it. Better is to make a template for your puffs by drawing circles on parchment paper beforehand. This extra step yields puffs that are more uniform in size, making them easier to stack. One batch of choux makes 50 puffs, enough for 12 servings (about four puffs per person).

Once they’re all piped, I like to dust the puffs with powdered sugar. Doing so reduces the chance of cracks and splits and lends to even color development. Once the puffs are baked, I make a small hole in the bottom of each before sliding them back into a turned-off, but still hot, oven with the door cracked open. This helps dry out the puffs as much as possible so that they retain their crunch. If you decide to bake the puffs ahead of time, you can freeze them for up to a month then refresh them in a warm oven until crisp. 

Dusting croquembouche with sugar
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

I opt for filling the puffs with crème légère, mostly because I love the marriage of custardy pastry cream and fluffy whipped cream. However, if you’re inclined, you can absolutely fill the puffs with just pastry cream (be it vanilla, chocolate, or lemon) or whipped cream (sweetened, flavored, or plain). Like the puffs, you can make the crème légère ahead of time and keep it in your refrigerator. You should fill your puffs no more than two hours before you plan to serve the croquembouche since filled puffs will soften over time.

Assembling the Croquembouche

The other major component of a croquembouche is the caramel. For this particular croquembouche, you need two batches: one for dipping the tops of the puffs and another for gluing the dipped puffs together. Many recipes advocate for making a single batch of caramel to dip and assemble but since the caramel solidifies as it cools, making it extremely hard to work with no matter how much you rewarm it, I call for two batches of the golden syrup. I follow Stella’s advice and stir the caramel to help the sugar dissolve. Once the sugar syrup reaches a boil, I switch to shaking and swirling the pan to ensure even caramelization. Since sugar syrup caramelizes fast once it takes on color, I rely on eyesight alone to gauge doneness instead of a thermometer. I avoid providing a temperature as a guide, since the volume of caramel produced is too shallow and can lead to an inaccurate reading.

As soon as the color reaches medium amber, I carefully pour the caramel into a heatproof microwave-safe bowl. It’s worth mentioning that, during testing, I took the caramel to various degrees of caramelization, from a light honey color to one verging on burnt sugar. I prefer a medium amber color both for its visual appearance and depth of flavor, without harboring any bitter notes. If you prefer a different doneness, by all means, pull your caramel once it reaches that shade. 

Dipped croquembouche
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

At this point, you’ll want to don latex gloves to avoid getting burned by hot sugar, then dip the top of each puff in the caramel before returning it to the baking sheet caramel-side up. You should try to work as quickly as possible since caramel thickens as it cools, making it harder to coat the tops evenly. However if this happens, simply pop the bowl in the microwave and reheat until the caramel loosens.

Once their caramel coating hardens, I like to sort my puffs, grouping them together by size, which will help create even layers in the tower. (Even though we're using a template to pipe the puffs, it’s unavoidable that some will be slightly larger or smaller than the others). I cluster nine of the largest puffs together―all of which are similar in size―for the initial layer, then do the same for the next layer of eight puffs, and so on and so forth. Although this step isn’t necessary, it helps ensure that I use the correct number of puffs per layer while also speeding up the assembly process. 

To make sure I’m ready to assemble my croquembouche, I place a sheet of parchment paper on top of a cake stand or turntable (this will catch any caramel drips) followed by an eight-inch disposable cake round. On top of the cake round, I arrange my pre-selected nine puffs in a circle to help gauge the width of the base. 

Gif of assembly of croquembouche
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

As soon as that second batch of caramel is ready, it’s time to start assembling the croquembouche. Remove one puff at a time from the arranged circle, dip a rounded edge in the caramel then stick it back in the empty space, angling it slightly inward to promote an even slope and holding it in place for a few seconds until the caramel hardens. Once your bottom layer is glued in place, you’ll repeat this process for the successive layer of eight puffs, dipping each puff in the caramel and positioning it in the gap between the bottom two puffs, while angling it slightly inward and holding it in place. 

It’s inevitable that you’ll have spaces here and there in the layers that are too large to leave empty but too small to fit a whole puff. For these spaces, take one of the extra puffs, dip it in caramel, and place it sideways in the empty space. Continue building your croquembouche, layer upon layer, and zapping the caramel in the microwave as necessary to loosen it (keep in mind that you want to keep the caramel as fluid as possible to prevent a thick coating that will make it difficult to break the puffs apart when serving). Once you reach your second-to-last layer, dip the bottom of one puff, stick it to the bottom of another puff, then dip the rounded edge of the conjoined puffs in the caramel and stick it on top before dipping and placing your final puff. 

If the caramel hasn’t fully set, dip a fork into the bowl then move it in a circular motion around the croquembouche from top to bottom to form thin, shiny threads. The croquembouche can be kept at room temperature for a couple of hours before serving. Resist the temptation to hold the croquembouche any longer (whether at room temperature or in the refrigerator) as the caramel will become sticky and eventually melt since sugar is hygroscopic, pulling moisture from the cream puffs the longer it sits. When it’s time to serve your croquembouche, take a moment to admire your creation, maybe snap a few pictures with it, then break it to glorious smithereens. 

For the Cream Puffs: Adjust oven racks so that one is in upper-middle position, the other is in lower-middle position, and preheat oven to 400°F (205°C). Take one sheet of parchment paper and, using a 1 1/4-inch round cutter, trace 25 circles that are 1 inch apart. Flip paper upside down and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Pipe a small amount of choux paste under each corner of parchment paper (the dough acts as a glue and keeps the paper in place as you pipe). Repeat with a second piece of parchment paper and a rimmed baking sheet. 

Overhead view of tracing circles on parchment paper
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Holding the filled pastry bag at a 90° angle, apply steady downward pressure to pipe puffs onto a prepared tray, filling each circle completely. To stop piping, cease applying pressure and swirl the pastry tip away. Repeat with second prepared tray. To smooth the surface of any uneven puffs, dip a finger into cold water and gently pat down any bumps. Dust puffs evenly with powdered sugar.

Four Image collage of piping puffs, tapping them down with a wet finger, dusting with powdered sugar, and finished puffs.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Bake both trays, switching racks and rotating trays front to back after 20 minutes, until puffed, golden brown, and hollow feeling, about 25 minutes total.

Turning croquembouche puffs in the oven
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Working quickly while puffs are still hot, gently insert the tip of a paring knife into the underside of each puff and rotate in a circular motion to create a small hole, about 1/4 inch in size. Return puffs to trays and place in the turned-off oven with the door partially open and let stand for 30 minutes to allow puffs to dry and fully set.

Poking bottom of puff with a paring knife
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Insert tip of crème légère–filled bag into hole in each puff and begin piping with steady pressure until filled (you can tell because the puff will feel heavy and cream will start to overflow the hole). Wipe away any excess crème légère. Repeat until all puffs are filled and set aside; reserve leftover crème légère for another use.

Close up of filling a puff with cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Place one sheet of parchment paper on top of a cake turntable or stand followed by an 8-inch disposable cake round or the 8-inch removable bottom of a springform or tart pan wrapped in aluminum foil. Set aside.

A cake stand lined with parchment paper
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

For the Caramel: In a 3-quart saucepan or saucier, combine 10 1/2 ounces sugar (1 1/2 cups; 300g) and 3 ounces water (6 tablespoons; 85g) water over medium heat. Stir with a fork until syrup comes to a boil, about 4 minutes, then simmer without stirring until syrup is honey-colored, roughly 5 minutes, shaking and swirling as needed to ensure even caramelization. Continue cooking, without stirring or swirling, until syrup is medium amber, about 1 minute longer. Carefully pour the hot caramel into a small glass bowl.

Carmel bubbling in a pan
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

While wearing latex gloves, hold each puff upside down and carefully dip the top in the caramel, letting any excess drip off. Return dipped puff to the tray caramel-side up. Repeat with remaining puffs. If the caramel starts to thicken, microwave in 10-second increments, stirring after each increment, until caramel is loose in consistency. 

Two image collage of dipping puff into carmel
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Wash and dry the used saucepan. In now-clean saucepan, combine remaining 10 1/2 ounces sugar (1 1/2 cups; 300g) and 3 ounces water (6 tablespoons; 85g) water over medium heat. Stir with a fork until syrup comes to a boil, about 4 minutes, then simmer without stirring until syrup is honey-colored, roughly 5 minutes, shaking and swirling as needed to ensure even caramelization. Continue cooking, without stirring or swirling, until syrup is medium amber, about 1 minute longer. Carefully pour the hot caramel into a separate small glass bowl.

Pouring carmel into a glass bowl
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

To Assemble and Serve the Croquembouche: Arrange the 9 largest caramel-topped puffs in a circle so they’re touching one another on the prepared cake round (this helps gauge the width of the base). Removing puffs from the circle one at a time, dip one side of the rounded edge of each puff into the caramel then press the dipped side, with the caramel-top facing outward, into its space on the cake round, angling it slightly inward and holding it in place until the caramel hardens, about 3 seconds. Repeat with remaining puffs to form the first layer of the croquembouche. 

First layer of croquembouche placed on parchment
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

To build successive layers, repeat the dipping process with the remaining puffs and caramel. As you build, you’ll reduce the number of puffs in each successive layer by one, positioning each puff in the gap between the bottom two puffs. If you have a space that needs to be filled in order to make a full layer, take one puff, dip a rounded edge in the caramel, and position the puff sideways in the empty space to complete the layer. If the caramel starts to thicken, microwave in 10-second increments, stirring after each increment, until caramel is loose in consistency.

Partially built croquembouche
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Once you reach your second-to-last layer, dip the bottom of one puff, stick it to the bottom of another puff, then dip the rounded edge of the conjoined puffs in the caramel and position it on top. Dip and place your final puff on top of the conjoined puffs. (You may have a couple leftover puffs, which you can eat or share).

Second layer of croquembouche towere
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

At this point the caramel should be quite viscous with a consistency similar to honey (if the caramel is even thicker like rubber cement, microwave in 5-second increments, stirring after each increment, until it loosens a bit). Dip the tines of the fork in the caramel, letting it drip back into the bowl until it falls in a thin thread. Then, move the fork in a circular motion around the croquembouche from top to bottom to form hair-like strands of caramel. Repeat until croquembouche is covered in caramel strands.

A fork drizzling carmel on croquembouche
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Serve croquembouche within 2 hours of being assembled. To serve, guests can break off puffs as desired or you can use scissors to cut apart puffs and transfer to serving plates.

Close up of croquembouche
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

Disposable latex gloves, cake turntable or stand, 8-inch disposable cake round (optional)

Notes

If you prefer to fill the puffs with pastry cream or whipped cream, you will need a greater volume of filling (roughly 3 cups).To use pastry cream, make a double batch of any of the pastry cream recipes―vanilla, chocolate, or lemon―or make a batch each of two different flavors. To use whipped cream, make a double batch of whipped cream (sweetened, flavored, or plain).

Make-Ahead and Storage

A croquembouche is best enjoyed immediately, ideally within 2 hours once assembled; left to stand longer and both the caramel and puffs will soften. 

To store unfilled cream puffs, wrap them tightly in plastic and place in an airtight container; they can be kept frozen for up to 1 month. To refresh puffs, preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). Transfer frozen puffs to a sheet tray and reheat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Let cool at room temperature before filling.

Crème légère can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

The Best Methods for Making Whipped Cream, Explained

A resource for how to make the best whipped cream at home, whatever the application.

Whipped cream on a red background
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

When I was a kid, I thought whipped cream came out of an aerosol can, ready to be squirted onto anything and everything at a moment’s notice. I didn’t know until I was much older that you could make the stuff yourself with just a bowl and a whisk. Then, I learned about infusing the cream with different flavors (I went through a six-month period of only making maple whipped cream, for which I have no apologies). Later on, I discovered that I could whip cream in a number of ways―using a stand mixer, food processor, whipping siphon, and even in a jar―all of which added flexibility to my whipped cream repertoire. 

Making whipped cream is easy; the hardest part is deciding how. What should you sweeten your whipped cream with, and more importantly, do you even need to? How should you infuse the cream with flavor? Is it better to use a stand mixer or a food processor? How do you keep the whipped cream from weeping? While I can’t provide step-by-step instructions for every single way to make whipped cream, the following guidelines should help you make the best whipped cream for whatever the application (and yes, sometimes that is squirting the can right into your mouth, no judgment).

What is Whipped Cream?

Whipped cream is a foam―a mass of bubbles suspended in (in this case) a liquid substance. When you whip cream, you are incorporating air into it in the form of bubbles of gas. As we've explained in our article on whipped cream science, by whipping cream, “a network of fat globule–surrounded air bubbles develops and the stable, somewhat solid structure known as whipped cream is born.” The whipped cream will go through stages of development: first, soft peaks whose looser consistency is best suited for folding into mousses, followed by stiff peaks, which has a firmer, fluffier shape ideal for piping and frosting. If you decide to whisk past stiff peaks, you will end up damaging the network of fat globules and destabilizing your foam. Although it might be salvageable by adding more cream, it’s best to keep on whisking to make butter, and then start fresh with a new batch of cream. 

6 stages of whipped cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

In order to achieve this spreadable, shapeable cloud-like structure, the cream must have a fat content of no less than 30 percent. Don’t bother trying to whip half-and-half and light cream as their lower fat percentages (10 to 12% and 18 to 30%, respectively) aren’t strong enough to form and hold air bubbles. In the US, this means you can use whipping cream (30 to 35% fat) or heavy cream (at least 36% fat). Due to its higher fat content, I recommend picking up heavy cream because it has the ability to form a stiffer, denser foam. 

Along with fat content, temperature plays an important role. According to Harold McGee in On Food and Cooking, “even mild warmth softens the butterfat skeleton of a cream foam.” Thus, cream meant for whipping should always be kept cold, around 40°F. In The Art of French Pastry, Jacquy Pfeiffer and Martha Rose Shulman write, “the colder fat is, the harder it is, thus the stronger its structure.” Since whipped cream is stabilized by its own fat, refrigerator-cold cream does a great job of holding onto those air bubbles. (While it won't have a huge impact on success, it can help to chill your equipment beforehand which I’ve found reduces whipping time.) Using warmer cream will only create a loose network of bubbles prone to collapse.

Flavoring Whipped Cream

Whipped cream takes extremely well to a variety of flavorings. Over the years, I’ve whisked up many batches of sweetened, flavored whipped cream and truth be told, no two are the same. I may sweeten one with maple syrup (I stand by this), add a dash of almond extract along with brown sugar to another, or cold steep cherry pits in the cream before whipping. In my dogged pursuit, I’ve come up with the following guidelines for how best to go about sweetening and adding flavor to your own. That said, I don’t believe it’s entirely necessary to add sugar or flavoring. Plain whipped cream can stand on its own, especially when paired with sweeter desserts. In these cases, the whipped cream helps cut through the intense sweetness for a more balanced overall effect. 

Options for sweetening whipped cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
  • Sweeteners: There are a good number of options: powdered sugar (conventional and organic), superfine sugar, granulated sugar, and brown sugar. Although it dissolves quickly, I tend to avoid powdered sugar due to its saccharine flavor, which I find off-putting. That said, powdered sugar contains cornstarch (or tapioca starch in the case of organic powdered sugar), which helps stabilize whipped cream. (It’s worth noting that organic powdered sugar also imparts a light butterscotch note as it’s made from raw cane sugar.) I much prefer using superfine or granulated sugar for its clean flavor. Since granulated sugar doesn’t dissolve as quickly, I add it right at the beginning to give it more time to dissolve. Brown sugar whipped cream is a delicious option, although its caramel-like flavor can overpower delicate desserts.
  • Wet Stir-Ins: Extracts, oils, waters, and alcohol are easy ways to boost the flavor of whipped cream. Less is more in most cases both because these ingredients are typically highly concentrated in flavor, and because introducing liquid that lacks fat can result in a looser whipped cream. Syrups, like honey, maple syrup, and lemon syrup, can also be used. One thing to keep in mind is these syrups double as sugar, so lay off on adding another sweetener. 
  • Dry Stir-Ins: Ground spices, cocoa powder, instant espresso powder, and freeze-dried fruit powders fall under this category. These powders will dissolve quickly into the cream as it whips. It’s important to note that adding large amounts may alter the final texture, plus depending on the ingredient, you could end up with bitter-tasting and unpalatable whipped cream. I recommend starting with small increments, tasting as you go. 
  • Pastes: Smooth peanut butter, Nutella, cajeta, dulce de leche, and tahini paste are wonderful in whipped cream. To work them in, you can add the paste from the get-go, whisking it in with the rest of the ingredients, or beat the paste with the sugar first, then gradually add the cream. Each paste has varying levels of sweetness, so you will need to adjust the amount of sugar. 
  • Infusions: This category runs the gamut and includes fresh or dried herbs, whole spices, coffee beans, tea, citrus zest, toasted coconut, nuts, and seeds. You can infuse the cream hot or cold, though it's often better to do one or the other depending on the ingredient. Some ingredients, like delicate fresh herbs, work best with a cold infusion to preserve their bright flavor. For dried herbs and whole spices, hot infusions are the best way to coax out their flavor. Meanwhile, tea and citrus zest can work both ways, yielding different results. To cold infuse, stir the ingredient into the cream and refrigerate anywhere from four hours up to a full day. To hot infuse, warm the ingredient in the cream, cover, and let steep for up to 30 minutes. Then, strain out the ingredient and chill the cream until cold. 
  • Salt: The addition of salt is entirely optional, but I find that just a pinch makes the whipped cream pop and helps balance the sweetness from any added sugar. For each cup of cold cream, I like to use 1/8 teaspoon of kosher salt or a hefty pinch of fine sea salt, which accentuates the overall flavor of the whipped cream. 
Flavor options for whipped cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Methods for Making Whipped Cream

There are four main methods for whipping cream: whisking by hand, in a stand mixer, in a food processor, and using a whipping siphon. Each one has benefits and drawbacks, which I will outline below. No matter the method, the cream must be whipped quickly because incorporating air as fast as possible keeps the cream relatively cool. In addition, it’s important to use enough cream so that the whisk makes contact with all of the liquid. Otherwise, counterintuitively, it will take longer to whip, which will give the cream more time to warm up, harming its ability to form a stable foam. 

Hand whipping cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
  • Hand-Whisk Method: I am a big proponent of whisking cream by hand. It gives you more control over the process, providing you with an intimate view of your cream as it progresses through the stages. This makes it nearly impossible to over-whip cream. The only equipment needed is a bowl, a balloon whisk, and some elbow grease. Those who have never whipped cream by hand may at first lack the proper wrist and arm motion to do it rapidly, but with practice, cream can be whipped by hand in a comparable amount of time as a stand mixer. 
  • Stand (or Hand) Mixer Method: This method is ideal for making a large amount of whipped cream (and it’s a great fallback method if your arms are fatigued). Plus, using a stand mixer guarantees the cream will whip quickly, helping to maintain its temperature. But, this advantage is also its drawback: it’s extremely easy to over-whip cream this way, especially if not paying full attention to it (because a stand mixer can operate without any oversight, it's easy to momentarily get distracted while it's running and let the cream go too far). If you choose to go this route, don’t walk away or check your phone―stand there patiently and watch as the cream transforms into a fluffy cloud, stopping to check the texture as needed. And while we generally don't recommend hand mixers at Serious Eats (they can't do much a manual whisk can't do, and also can't do a lot of things a stand mixer can do), they are an obvious stand mixer alternative that achieves similar results.
  • Food Processor Method: A food processor incorporates less air than the methods described above, resulting in a dense, thick foam that is stable enough to use as a frosting. Plus, with its smaller air bubbles, processed cream keeps well in the refrigerator, lasting for one full week without weeping. However, like the stand mixer method, it can quickly turn the cream into butter if one isn’t vigilant. Normally, whipping cream doubles its volume but this doesn’t hold true with the food processor method. Because the blades of the machine aren’t great at aeration, the yield matches the amount of cream added. 
  • Whipping Siphon Method: A whipping siphon relies on nitrous oxide (N2O) to produce the airiest whipped cream. Very little work is involved with this method: chill the canister, add cold cream, charge it with a N2O cartridge, shake the canister, and dispense perfect whipped cream. You can also hold a siphon of cream for at least a couple weeks in the fridge, since the aeration doesn't actually happen until the cream is dispensed; this means you can load up a siphon, charge it, and use as needed over the course of many days until it runs dry. In spite of this, there are a few downsides: nitrous oxide is a greenhouse gas; in some states, you must be 21 to buy N2O cartridges; and as soon as you dispense the cream, it deflates a tiny bit. It's also difficult to control the texture of siphon-dispensed cream; like cans of the supermarket stuff, the cream comes out with a fluffy but unvaried texture, so if you want control, this isn't the way to go. In addition, a siphon can cost upwards of $100, but on the bright side, it lasts a long time.
Whipped cream on a standmixer head
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Stabilizing Whipped Cream

As whipped cream sits, it deflates, losing air bubbles and weeping liquid as the fat separates out. To keep things fluffy, it’s common to incorporate a stabilizer to whipped cream, which helps maintain its bubbly structure. I tested four common stabilizers―Greek yogurt, gelatin, cream of tartar, and xanthan gum―to assess which ones worked best. I made individual batches of whipped cream with one of the stabilizers and stored them in the refrigerator, checking the texture and taking note of consistency daily. Here are my takeaways: 

Options for stabilizing whipped cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
  • Greek Yogurt: I whisked one tablespoon of full-fat Greek yogurt into a cup of cold cream. This whipped cream held up remarkably well: It was more flavorful and just slightly denser in texture with no weeping in sight. As long as your whipped cream benefits from the tangier flavor, I recommend this route because it requires very little effort and you likely have Greek yogurt on hand. If you don’t have full-fat Greek yogurt, you can substitute sour cream or crème fraîche, adding up to 1/4 cup per one cup of heavy cream. 
  • Gelatin: I dissolved a half teaspoon of unflavored gelatin powder in warm water, then gradually added it to the cream as it whipped. After a stint in the refrigerator, I observed no discernible change in texture and no additional flavors―the whipped cream was perfectly fluffy. Even though it required some extra work, the addition of gelatin yielded the best results. 
  • Cream of Tartar: I added a scant teaspoon of cream of tartar to a batch of whipped cream cream and although it worked, the whipped cream was slightly grainy with an off-putting metallic taste. 
  • Xanthan Gum: Like the cream of tartar, I added a mere teaspoon of xanthan gum to whipped cream. This resulting “whipped cream” was soft, stretchy, and somewhat slimy with a denseness reminiscent of sour cream. 

How to Use Whipped Cream

We probably don't need to tell you this, but whipped cream is extremely versatile. It doubles as a topping, an ingredient, and even as a frosting. Dollop some on top of hot chocolate, combine it with fruit compote for a fool, stuff it between layers of a genoise sponge cake, or spoon it over pie. And, if you’re feeling extra generous, serve it straight up in bowls. Because let’s be honest, we’re all just here for the whipped cream. 

For the Hand-Whisk Method: In a large wide bowl, combine cream, and, if using, sugar, vanilla extract, and a pinch of salt. Using a balloon whisk, beat cream by alternating between the following motions: moving the whisk quickly from side-to-side and in circles around the perimeter of the bowl while gently lifting. As you whisk, you’ll begin to see trails in the cream that stay put. Continue to whisk until soft peaks form; if you lift the whisk, peaks will form but immediately slump over. You can use the whipped cream at soft peaks or continue to whisk until stiff peaks form. At this point, the whipped cream will be fluffy and thick; if you lift the whisk, the peaks will stand up straight. Do not whisk beyond stiff peaks. Serve or use as desired.

For the Stand (or Hand) Mixer Method: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine cream, and, if using, sugar, vanilla extract, and a pinch of salt. If using sugar, whisk on low speed until sugar is fully dissolved, about 30 seconds. Increase speed to medium-high; as you whisk, you’ll begin to see trails in the cream that stay put. Continue to whisk until soft peaks form, about 1 minute; if you lift the whisk, peaks will form but immediately slump over. You can use the whipped cream when at soft peaks or continue to whisk until stiff peaks form, about 10 seconds. At this point, the whipped cream will be fluffy and thick; if you lift the whisk, the peaks will stand up straight. Do not whisk beyond stiff peaks. Serve or use as desired.

For the Food Processor Method: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine cream, and, if using, sugar, vanilla extract, and a pinch of salt. Pulse until thick and creamy like Greek yogurt, less than 1 minute (the time will vary with the horsepower of your machine). Serve or use as desired. 

For the Whipping Siphon Method: If using sugar, combine cream and sugar in a bowl, and mix until sugar is fully dissolved. Add cream, vanilla extract (if using), and a pinch of salt (if using) to the siphon canister, screw on lid, and charge with 1 nitrous oxide cartridge. Shake canister 15 times, dispense whipped cream, and serve. 

Special Equipment

Balloon whisk (optional), stand mixer (optional), food processor (optional), whipping siphon (optional)

Make-Ahead and Storage

Whipped cream made by hand-whisking or in a stand mixer can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 12 hours. To store for longer, refer to headnote for guidelines on how to stabilize whipped cream. 

Whipped cream made in a food processor can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week. 

Whipped cream in a whipping siphon can be refrigerated for up to 10 days; shake it a few times before dispensing.

Flan Pâtissier (French Custard Tart)

Vanilla bean-flecked pastry cream meets flaky pie crust in this take on a classic French pastry.

Overhead view of a slice of Flan Pâtissier
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

I’m always on the lookout for new ways to use up a batch of pastry cream. Recently, my friend Sayo Yamagata opened her first bakery, Pâtisserie Ginko, in Paris' 19th arrondissement. I was scrolling through the bakery’s Instagram when my eyes landed on a dreamy-looking slice of flan pâtissier―a vanilla bean-flecked custard baked in a crisp puff pastry shell. I’ve been to France several times (it’s where I met my husband), but I had yet to try it for myself. I called in some help and spoke with Ju Chamalo, the author of Mes Flan Pâtissiers, Brian Levy, the author of Good and Sweet, and Sayo herself to learn more about this classic French pastry. 

Flan pâtissier, also known as flan Parisien, or flan for short, is a traditional bakery staple. It is typically sold by the slice and enjoyed by children on their way home from school for “le goûter,” or snack time. During my recipe research, I watched video after video of French chefs like Dominique Ansel, Thierry Marx, and Christophe Michalak making flan pâtissier, each with their own approach. When I asked Chamalo and Sayo about this, Chamalo told me, “there is no perfect flan, everyone’s tastes are different.” Sayo, meanwhile, compared flan to pizza: It's customizable, you can change up the filling, the crust, and even the pan you bake it in. Your ideal flan might be quite thick with chocolate custard and a tender pâte sucrée crust, whereas I like mine with a thin layer of vanilla pastry cream in a buttery, flaky pie crust. Flan variations, like pizza, are limitless. 

Overhead view of Flan Pâtissier
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Traditionally, flan pâtissier is filled with vanilla pastry cream. Although it isn’t the only version out there (I recommend scrolling through Chamalo’s Instagram for inspiration), it is by far the most common. At home, I made ones with pastry creams flavored with vanilla, lemon, and chocolate. I personally adored the one flavored with lemon, but my husband and two kids couldn’t get enough of the vanilla flan, which is also Chamalo’s favorite. My recipe below calls for vanilla pastry cream but you can easily replace it with an equal amount of lemon pastry cream or any other flavor you want. It’s important to make sure your pastry cream is cold or at room temperature when spreading it into the pastry shell—Chamalo warned me that if the filling is hot, it's more likely to overflow during baking. 

Just like the filling, there are many options for the crust. The most popular ones are pâte sucrée and puff pastry (Chamalo uses the former in his recipe while Sayo sticks with the latter at the bakery). You can also use pie crust (a tip I received from Levy, whose version relies on an enriched pie dough), gâteau Basque dough, croissant dough, or even go without for a crustless version. In my testing, the pâte sucrée had a harder time standing up to the rich filling, producing an overall texture that was too soft (although, you could tinker with the pâte sucrée recipe to make it more sturdy). A version with puff pastry, on the other hand, was great but I knew I could produce a similar effect with pie crust. I turned to Stella’s extra-flaky pie crust recipe, which baked up tender and crisp and contrasted well with the creamy filling. 

Sideview of Flan Pâtissier
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

As for the size and shape, I tried baking the flan in a ring mold and a pie pan with larger ratios of filling to crust, but found that the filling overwhelmed the crust in those versions. After rounds of testing, I decided to shape my flan in a tart pan since it yielded a roughly two-to-one ratio of filling to crust that I much preferred; plus it forms a nicely-fluted edge. If you prefer your flan quite thick, you can double the amount of pastry cream and bake it in a ring mold or springform pan. 

Once assembled, I like to brush the surface with egg yolks to create an evenly-colored burnished finish on top. After baking, you'll need to exercise some willpower by waiting for it to cool to room temperature and then chilling it in the refrigerator, preferably overnight. When it’s ready, slice it up and eat it out of hand as a snack, just like a kid coming home from school.

A fork on a plate next to a half eaten Flan Pâtissier
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Place dough on a generously floured work surface. Using a rolling pin and adding flour as needed underneath and on top of the dough to prevent sticking, roll out to a 13-inch circle. Transfer to a 9 1/2–inch tart pan by carefully rolling dough around the rolling pin, then unrolling over the pan. Press dough gently yet firmly into the corners and up the sides of the pan. Dust off flour with a pastry brush, then trim excess dough that extends past the rim of the pan. Transfer tart shell to a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Four Image collage of dough being rolled out, draped over a pie pan, formed into pan, and excess dough being removed from the top
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Scrape pastry cream into prepared tart shell and, using a small offset spatula, spread the filling in an even layer. Using a pastry brush, brush surface of pastry cream all over with egg yolks.

Four Image collage of filling being added to crust, smoothed with an offset spatula, and covered in eg wash.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Bake flan until puffed and deep golden brown, about 45 minutes.

Finished Flan Pâtissier
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Set baking sheet with flan on a wire rack and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Transfer flan to the refrigerator and chill until filling is cold and firm, at least 4 hours but preferably 8 hours. Slice and serve.

Side view of a slice of Flan Pâtissier
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

Rolling pin, small offset spatula, 9 1/2–inch tart pan with removable bottom, pastry brush

Notes

If you like, you can replace the pie dough with 1/2 recipe of pâte sucrée

You can use lemon or chocolate pastry cream in place of vanilla pastry cream. Flan pâtissier filled with lemon pastry cream is my personal favorite.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Flan pâtissier can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Financiers (French Mini Almond Cakes)

Deeply satisfying to eat, these tender-crisp financiers benefit from nutty brown butter and ground toasted almonds.

Overhead view of financiers
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

I’m not a cake person. I didn’t have cake at my wedding, and, despite my mother’s insistence, my husband and I decided on an ice cream sundae bar instead. I've been to enough weddings where the cake has been dry, rubbery, or just so generally lackluster that no amount of too-sweet frosting can salvage it or make me regret our decision. That said, there are a few types of cake I will giddily look forward to: fudgy chocolate cake, muffins (basically less sweet cakes sans frosting), gâteau Basque (the grown-up version of a Pop-Tart), and tender-crisp financiers (preferably still warm from the oven). 

Moist on the inside with a crisp eggshell-like exterior, financiers (pronounced fee-nahn-see-ay) are rich, dainty cakes scented with almonds and brown butter. The nutty cakes are baked in molds in a variety of shapes―round, teddy bear, or rectangular like gold bars. The last form, which is traditional, is credited to a baker named Lasne, who sold the cakes to stockbrokers that frequented his bakery near Paris’s financial center in the late 1800s. The cake itself was a riff on a similar pastry known as the visitandine, made by nuns of the Order of the Visitation. Amanda Hesser writes in The New York Times “that it is likely that the baker Lasne simply altered the shape and the name of the cake to flatter his clientele.”

Close up view of a financier
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Financiers may sound fancy but in actuality are easy to make, using just a handful of basic pantry ingredients―egg whites, butter, almonds, all-purpose flour, sugar, and salt. After doing some recipe research, I made a few informed decisions when it came to the ingredients and method. In my initial tests, I whipped up financiers with almond flour and hazelnut flour (another popular option). Even though I liked the one with hazelnuts, I much preferred the marzipan-like flavor of the almond financiers. And, because I couldn’t resist, I did a test swapping ground toasted almonds in place of store-bought almond flour, which added complexity and a pleasing texture with slightly coarser nutty bits. If you have almond flour available, you can substitute with an equal amount by weight; your financiers will just have a finer texture. (You can also play around with the nuts, swapping in pistachios or walnuts or hazelnuts for the almonds). 

The traditional method of making financiers involves heating the sugar, almonds, egg whites, and salt in a pot until the sugar is fully dissolved, then stirring in the flour and browned butter. This method produced financiers that weren’t quite tender enough, however I suspect it has fallen out of favor because it requires cooking the ingredients on the stovetop before baking. These days, a far more common method simply combines the dry ingredients then mixes in the egg whites followed by the butter. The majority of recipes bake the batter after that tout de suite, however I found the resulting financiers to be rather tough and chewy. I gave chilling the batter a try, a step that very few other recipes instruct. Once baked, the cakes made from the rested batter were soft and springy with a more robust flavor. 

Financier batter in a glass bowl
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Many baking experts will tell you that resting a batter can be helpful because it relaxes the gluten network that formed during mixing. I initially assumed as much given the results of my financier tests, but after speaking to Francisco Migoya, the head chef at Modernist Cuisine, it became clear that the old rest-your-batter-to-relax-its-gluten thing isn't quite right. Migoya says that “in the case of batters or cookie doughs, a quick mixing time is not enough time to form a gluten network.” This, coupled with the large amount of fat, limits its gluten potential. He added that the resting time can have other beneficial effects, mostly in that it gives the dry ingredients more time to hydrate, meaning they will absorb the moisture from the egg whites. Once fully hydrated, the batter cooks up into more tender, moist cakes. A few hours in the refrigerator also gives the flavors time to meld and firms up the batter, which makes getting it into the molds a piece of cake. 

Financier batter in mini cake pan topped with almonds
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Baking the financiers in a financier pan isn’t a requirement. Many recipes, including my own, rely on a mini muffin pan to form the tiny cakes. If you have a financier pan, by all means use it; your yield may be slightly different depending on the size of the molds. Except for a sprinkle of sliced almonds on top, I serve my financiers unadorned. While deeply satisfying to eat as-is, you can dress them up with a glaze or dip them into melted chocolate. I recommend eating as many of the buttery cakes as you can in one sitting. Life is too short for bad cake.

In a 2-quart stainless steel saucepan or saucier, melt butter over medium-low heat. Increase heat to medium and simmer, stirring with a heat-resistant spatula while butter hisses and pops. Continue cooking and stirring until foaming subsides, scraping up brown bits that form on bottom, and butter is golden yellow and milk solids are chestnut brown in color, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small heatproof bowl and set aside.

20180927-brown-butter-shortbread-cookies-vicky-wasik-1-3

In a blender or food processor, combine toasted almonds and flour and pulse until almonds are completely broken down into fine, sandy crumbs, about 30 seconds. Transfer flour-almond mixture to a large bowl, add sugar and salt, and whisk until thoroughly combined, about 30 seconds. Add egg whites and whisk until smooth and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute (the consistency should be similar to pancake batter). Add half of the brown butter and whisk until fully incorporated, about 30 seconds. Repeat with remaining butter. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and up to 1 day. 

Four Image collage. Top Left: Dry ingredients being whisked together in a bowl. Top Right: Egg whites being added to mixed dry ingredients. Bottom Left: Whisking browned sugar into batter. Bottom Right: Batter in a glass bowl covered with plastic wrap
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Grease a 24-cup nonstick mini muffin pan. Using a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or measuring spoon, scoop 1 tablespoon of dough into each cup. Bake until financiers are puffed and domed on top and light golden brown in the center with deeper golden brown edges, about 12 minutes. 

Overhead view of batter being added to a mini cupcake pan
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Using a butter knife or small, thin offset spatula, remove financiers from pan. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Financiers cooling on a wire rack
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

2-quart stainless steel saucepan or saucier, blender or food processor, 24-cup nonstick mini muffin pan, 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or measuring spoon

Make-Ahead and Storage

The batter can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated for up to 1 day. 

Financiers are best enjoyed on the same day they’re baked.

Gâteau Basque Recipe

The grown-up version of a Pop-Tart, gâteau Basque combines elements of a cookie, a tart, and a pie, with a filling of pastry cream or cherry jam.

Overhead view of a sliced gateau basque cake with a hand reaching in for a slice
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

The first time I heard of gâteau Basque (or Basque cake), I was told to imagine a kind of pastry that blends elements of a cookie, a tart, and a pie, with a filling of pastry cream or cherry jam. That description was more than enough to sell me on the idea—it wasn't long before I'd baked my own. The result was lightly sweet with a sturdy yet tender, slightly crumbly crust, buttery-rich flavor, and a creamy center. Dorie Greenspan, the prolific baker and cookbook author, equates it to a “grown-up Pop-Tart” and, funnily enough, those were the first words my brother-in-law used to describe the pastry, mumbling them between mouthfuls of cake. 

A hand holding up a piece of gateau basque
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Gâteau Basque hails from the pays Basque, or Basque country, in southwestern France. Known as “etxeko bixkotxa” in Basque, the cake gained widespread popularity during the nineteenth century, thanks to Marianne Hirigoyen, a baker from the town of Cambo-les-Bains, who sold the cakes at local markets before opening her own bakery. Nowadays, the cake is a fixture of Basque culinary culture, so much so that there is a museum, a two-day annual festival, and an Eguzkia association of twenty pastry chefs, all of whom are dedicated to promoting and upholding the cake's tradition. 

Basque cake has two main components: the dough and the filling. The dough itself is made from all-purpose flour, baking powder, granulated sugar, eggs, butter, and salt. The addition of baking powder helps the dough rise slightly and lightens the final texture, avoiding dense and heavy results. I like to mix in almond flour, a non-traditional ingredient, which I found adds a nubbly quality to the dough and complements the almond extract (another addition of my choosing) in the pastry cream filling. The dough is easy to prepare with a stand mixer, first by beating together softened butter and sugar until fluffy, then working in an egg, and finally incorporating the almond and all-purpose flours. The dough is then split into two (these will later be layered with the filling) and refrigerated to firm up.

The layers of a gateau basque before being covered
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Traditionally, the filling consists of either pastry cream or black cherry jam―it is always one or the other, with pastry cream being the most popular. For the pastry cream, I stick with classic vanilla, adding in a splash of rum (which I’ve made optional) and almond extract (if you’re inclined, you can sub in chocolate pastry cream, which isn’t a common flavor variant but one that pairs well with cherries). As for the jam, the "official" version is made from black cherries grown in Itxassou, a village in the French Basque country, but that's obviously not an option for most of us, so use whatever store-bought black cherry jam you can find.

In my own recipe tests, I made versions alternatively with only pastry cream and only jam, and while they were good, I couldn’t help myself from making a third version with both fillings, which—shocker of shockers!—was my favorite with that classic tart-like combo of sweet custard and juicy fruit. While not entirely conventional for gâteau Basque, it’s not an unheard-of innovation in modern recipes

Overhead view of a hand serving a piece of gateau basque
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Once the fillings are prepared, the final step is assembling the cake, first by rolling the disks of dough into smooth, thin layers, and then layering them into an eight-inch cake pan with the pastry cream and jam in between. After pinching the top and bottom dough edges together, I like to fold the excess back over instead of trimming, to create a thicker crust all around. A little egg wash brushed on top followed by a crosshatch pattern with the tines of a fork give the cake its classic shiny design. After baking and once it has completely cooled, gâteau Basque tastes best on the day it’s made, coupled with a mug of tea or coffee, and, if you must, a Pop-Tart for comparison's sake.

In a medium bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, almond flour, baking powder, and 3/4 teaspoon salt until thoroughly combined. Set aside. 

Dry ingredients unmixed in a glass bowl
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine butter and sugar and mix on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down bowl and paddle, add the 1 large egg, and mix on medium speed until fully incorporated, about 1 minute. Scrape down bowl and paddle, add half of flour mixture, then mix on low speed until just combined, about 15 seconds. Repeat with remaining flour mixture, scraping down bowl and paddle as needed. 

Four Image Collage of the batter being formed in a stand mixer with the additions of flour, butter, and egg
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Scrape dough, along with any loose bits, onto a lightly floured work surface and, using your hands, bring dough together into a smooth ball (dough should be soft and slightly sticky but refrain from adding more flour). Divide dough into 2 equal portions (about 340g each) and shape into flat, round disks. Wrap each disk tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and up to 1 day.

Two Image Collage. Top: Forming dough into a ball on a floured surface. Bottom: Two cut into two sections.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease an 8-inch cake pan with butter and set aside. Remove dough disks from refrigerator and set on clean work surface.

Two discs of dough wrapped in plastic wrap on a counter
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

In a medium bowl, whisk together pastry cream, rum (if using), and almond extract until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

Vanilla being added to pastry cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining whole egg and egg yolk with the cream and the remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt until homogeneous. Set egg wash aside. 

Egg wash in a bowl
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Place one dough disk on a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin and adding flour as needed underneath and on top of the dough to prevent sticking, roll out to a 9-inch circle that’s about 1/4-inch thick. Transfer to the tart pan by carefully rolling dough around the rolling pin, then unrolling over the pan. Press dough gently yet firmly into the corners and up the sides of the pan. Dust off excess flour with a pastry brush. 

Four Image collage of rolling out dough and then using the rolling pin to transfer the dough to the baking pan
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Add cherry jam to the center of the dough, and using the back of a spoon or a small offset spatula, spread in a smooth, even layer, leaving 1/2-inch of space around the perimeter. Repeat with prepared pastry cream, spreading evenly on top of jam.

Two Image Collage of jam then cream being added to the pastry
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Place second dough disk on a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin and adding flour as needed underneath and on top of the dough to prevent sticking, roll out to a 8.5-inch circle that’s about 1/4-inch thick. Transfer to the tart pan by carefully rolling dough around the rolling pin, then unrolling over the filling. Using your hands, tuck the top layer of dough in along the space around the perimeter, making sure that the outermost edge of the dough is upright. Using your thumbs, seal the top and bottom edges of dough together. Fold the excess dough up and back over the top, pressing down around the perimeter to smooth out the dough. Dust off excess flour with a pastry brush. 

Four image collage of the pastry being covered with dough and pinched into place
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Using a pastry brush, brush top surface all over with egg wash. Using the tines of a fork, gently scrape a decorative pattern onto the surface (a crosshatch pattern is traditional but you can be as creative as you like).

Overhead view of pastry being crosshatched with a fork
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Bake cake until puffed and deep golden brown, about 45 minutes. 

Finished gateau basque resting on a wire rack
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Transfer cake pan to a wire rack and let cool completely to room temperature, about 2 hours. Run a butter knife along edges to loosen, then invert onto wire rack, remove pan, and place cake right side up on a serving platter. Slice and serve.

A slice of gateau basque on a red plate
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

Stand mixer, 8-inch cake pan, rolling pin, bowl scraper or flexible spatula

Notes

In the pays Basque, black cherry jam made from a local variety of black cherry is traditionally used. I’ve had great success with using any of the cherry jams, spreads, and preserves that are available at my grocery store. 

You can substitute 8 ounces (1 cup; 225g) chocolate pastry cream in place of the vanilla pastry cream. 

Make-Ahead and Storage

Wrapped tightly in plastic, gâteau Basque can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. 

How to Make Moussaka Recipe

A classic Greek dish made of rich, hearty layers of potato, eggplant, and tomato-based meat sauce, blanketed in creamy béchamel.

Overhead view of a fork of moussaka on a plate
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Every time I eat moussaka, I crave its rich, hearty layers of eggplant, meat sauce, and béchamel for weeks after. So I jumped at the chance to develop a recipe. After many hours of testing, I finally had a dish I was proud of: layers of fried potatoes, silky eggplant, and a rich, tomato-based meat sauce, all blanketed in a creamy béchamel sauce. 

Plated moussaka showing off layers
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

This moussaka closely mirrors the Greek version, which was created in the 1920s by Greek chef and cookbook author, Nikolas Tselementes. Before Tselementes, moussaka typically consisted of layers of eggplant topped with a tomato-meat sauce; it wasn't the moussaka we know today. Tselementes added béchamel sauce and his version is now basically synonymous with moussaka in the US. That said, other variations of moussaka exist in many countries, including Albania, Turkey, and Egypt.

To make sure I was on the right track while developing my recipe, I spoke with Rona Econamou, a cook who does Greek food pop-ups in New York City, and Elsa Stamatopoulou, who hails from Greece and often makes moussaka at home for her family. Each woman spoke with me at length about the dish, patiently answered all of my questions, and walked me through how they prepare its components. I learned that since moussaka is a labor-intensive dish, it's mostly served at special occasions or in the summertime, when tomatoes and eggplant are in season. I was surprised to hear that while their versions shared the same basic components―eggplant, meat sauce, béchamel―they had markedly different opinions about whether or not there should be potatoes, whether the meat should be lamb or beef, which spices should be added to the meat sauce, and how to cook the eggplant. With their insight in hand, I tested version after version of moussaka, making changes along the way, until I found my perfect version.

The Béchamel Sauce

A quick search for “moussaka” turns up plenty of recipes with their own take on the béchamel sauce. Besides the standard ingredients of butter, flour, and milk, many cooks incorporate eggs, egg yolks, cheese, or yogurt into the sauce. For moussaka, you want a thick béchamel, one that sits tall on top and doesn’t seep into the layers below. I found that a béchamel made from 3 tablespoons of flour per cup of milk could produce a substantial layer on top, even if it was slightly bland and one-dimensional, layer. To give it flavor, I add shredded kefalotyri cheese (which I learned about from Rona and Elsa), a salty, hard cheese from Greece whose sharp flavor is similar to Pecorino Romano. To give it a creamier, custard-like consistency, I enriched the béchamel with egg yolks. Once baked, it’s rich, gooey, and so good that my toddler asks for extra servings of the béchamel alone.

Cheese added to béchamel sauce
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

The Meat Sauce

According to Rona and Elsa, the meat sauce can be made with ground beef or lamb, but at the end of the day, it’s really up to the cook. I tested with all beef, all lamb, and a combination of the two. The version made with equal amounts of beef and lamb yielded a flavorful meat sauce that can stand up to the additional spices and tomatoes. In the recipe below, I let you choose the meat so you can enjoy the moussaka however you like it. 

Overhead view of canned tomatoes added to meat in pot
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Once the meat is browned, I add aromatics in the form of garlic and onion, followed by tomato paste and a dry red wine for richness and depth. For the tomatoes, in-season ripe tomatoes are what's traditionally used, but since the quality of tomatoes varies depending on availability and the time of year, I use canned, peeled, whole tomatoes, which add body, brightness, and acidity. Finishing the sauce with a cinnamon stick, cloves, bay leaves, and dried oregano deepens the flavor and adds complexity.

The Vegetables

I love fried eggplant; it’s sweet, soft, and, yes, a little greasy. In light of that fact, I didn't test versions of this recipe using alternative methods for cooking the eggplant, but I did run two tests on frying eggplant: salting the eggplant, microwaving the slices, then pressing them to remove excess moisture prior to frying, and straight-up frying plain slices of eggplant. Once baked in moussaka, I failed to notice any difference between the two. So my recipe calls for frying the eggplant in oil until golden brown (be sure to top up the oil between batches since eggplant soaks it up), letting them drain on paper towel-lined trays, and seasoning them with salt. 

Close up image of eggplant layered on top of potatoes
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

With the eggplant taken care of, I turned my attention to the potatoes. Rona and Elsa had opposing views on the matter of potatoes. “I’ve never seen moussaka without potatoes,” Rona says. Elsa, on the other hand, dislikes potatoes in her moussaka and emphasizes that potatoes “cheapen my dish.” With their hot takes in hand, I made side-by-side tests of moussaka with thinly-sliced Yukon Gold potatoes prepared the following ways: par-cooked and fried. I also made a moussaka without potatoes as a control. I fully expected to like the one without potatoes best (given my love of eggplant), but I discovered that I liked potatoes in my moussaka. The one with par-cooked potatoes fell short―the potatoes tasted under-seasoned and water-logged. However, the version with fried potatoes was excellent: their crisp starchiness was a welcome foil for the heaviness of the eggplant, meat sauce, and béchamel. So in this recipe, I fry the potatoes just like the eggplant, until golden brown on both sides, and then finish them with a dash of salt. 

The Assembly

This recipe makes a lot of moussaka, so I use a sturdy 9- by 13-inch baking dish placed on top of a foil-lined baking sheet to catch any spills. I begin by arranging a single layer of fried potato slices in the pan (it’s okay to slightly overlap them as you would in a gratin) followed by a second layer on top, then I do the same with the fried eggplant. Spoon the meat sauce over the eggplant, pour the béchamel sauce on top (I like to use a small offset spatula to make a smooth surface), and sprinkle shredded kefalotyri over the entire thing. 

After baking, I let the moussaka rest for 30 minutes to firm up the layers before slicing and serving. Since moussaka is particularly filling, Rona and Elsa say it’s typically served with fresh bread, Greek salad, and spinach pie. Personally, I’ve found that I like a square of moussaka as-is, savoring each layer, before helping myself to another slice.

For the Béchamel: In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add flour and whisk to form a paste. Cook, whisking constantly, until raw flour smell is gone but flour has not browned, about 1 minute. While whisking constantly, slowly pour milk in a thin, steady stream until all of it has been added (sauce will initially become very thick, then get very thin once all the milk is added). Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until béchamel comes to a simmer and begins to thicken slightly. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until béchamel is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. 

Four Image Collage. Top Right: Flour and butter in a pot. Top Left: Whisking flour and butter until crumbly. Bottom Left: Milk being poured into pot. Bottom Right: Spoon test showing sauce covering the spoon.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Whisk in kefalotryi and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Transfer to medium bowl, cover with plastic wrap, pressing plastic against surface to prevent a skin from forming, and let cool for 15 minutes. Whisk in egg yolks then re-cover with plastic wrap flush against surface and set aside.

Four Image Collage. Top Left: Grating nutmeg into pot. Top Right: cheese being added to sauce. Bottom Right: Sauce transferred to a glass bowl, covered in plastic. Bottom Left: egg yolks added to sauce
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

For the Meat Sauce: Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over high heat until shimmering. Add half of ground meat and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot, until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes; use a potato masher or large whisk to break up meat as it cooks. Add remaining meat and cook, continuing to break it up with masher or whisk, until just cooked through and reduced to small bits, about 3 minutes; lower heat as necessary to prevent scorching. If there is excessive rendered fat, drain off all but about 1/4 cup (60ml). Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot, until just beginning to soften slightly, about 4 minutes.

Four Image Collage. Top Left: Mashing meat in pot with whisk. Top Right: More raw meat added to cooked meat. Bottom Left: Garlic and onion added to meat in pot. Bottom Right: Onion and Meat cooking in a pot
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Add tomato paste and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Add red wine, then increase heat to high and bring to a simmer. Cook, scraping up any browned bits, until wine has almost fully evaporated. Add canned tomatoes and their liquid, cinnamon stick halves, cloves, bay leaves, and oregano. Return to a simmer, then reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring often and crushing the whole tomatoes roughly with a spoon, until sauce has reduced and thickened and meat is coated in a silky glaze, about 30 minutes. Discard cinnamon stick halves, cloves, and bay leaves. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

Two Image Collage. Top Image: Canned tomatoes and spices on top of meat. Bottom image: mixed tomatoes and meat cooking in a pot.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Meanwhile, for the Vegetables: Line two rimmed baking sheets with a double layer of paper towels. In a large Dutch oven or wok, heat 1 inch vegetable oil over medium-high heat to 375°F (190°C). Working in batches to avoid crowding the oil, fry eggplant slices in a single layer, turning once halfway through, until golden-brown on both sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer fried eggplant to prepared baking sheet, season with salt, and set aside.

Overhead view of eggplants being fried in a dutch oven with 3 resting on a paper towel to the side
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Top up Dutch oven with oil as needed and return oil to 375°F (190°C). Repeat frying process with potatoes, frying potatoes in batches until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes. Transfer fried potatoes to second prepared baking sheet, season with salt, and set aside.

Overhead shot of potatoes being fried in a dutch oven with a bowl of sliced potatoes and potatoes resting on a paper towel.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

To Assemble and Bake: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Set a 9- by 13-inch baking dish on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Arrange fried potatoes in two even layers that cover the bottom of the baking dish (potatoes can overlap slightly). Arrange fried eggplant in a single even layer on top of potatoes (eggplant slices can overlap slightly). Top with all of the meat sauce, using a spatula to spread it in an even layer on top of the eggplant. Top with all of the béchamel sauce, spreading with a spatula to cover meat sauce completely. Sprinkle top all over with shredded kefalotyri.

Four image collage. Top Left: Potatoes lining the bottom of a baking tray. Top Right: meat sauce added to the second layer of fried eggplants. Bottom Left: Adding béchamel sauce layer to sheet. Bottom Right: moussaka topped with cheese on a baking tray.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Bake moussaka until top is golden brown and moussaka is warmed through, about 50 minutes. Let stand for 30 minutes before slicing and serving.

Two image collage. Top: baked moussaka on a blue background. Bottom: cross-section view of cut moussaka showing layers in pan
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

Large Dutch oven or wok, rimmed baking sheets, 9- by 13-inch baking dish

Notes

Kefalotyri is a salty, hard cheese from Greece made from sheep or goat’s milk. If it’s unavailable, substitute with Pecorino Romano.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Covered tightly with plastic wrap, moussaka can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. To reheat, preheat oven to a 350°F (180°C), transfer moussaka to oven, and heat until completely warmed through, about 30 minutes.

Honey-Roasted Peanuts

Crunchy, roasted peanuts coated in a honey butter glaze and finished with a light dusting of sugar and salt.

Bowl of honey roasted peanuts on a textured green fabric next to a glass of beer
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

When it comes to roasted nuts, people's preferences fall into one of three categories: unsalted, salted, and what I call “extra”―nuts coated in sugar, spices, or chocolate. My husband, James, and I fall into different camps. I prefer lightly-salted nuts, whereas James clamors for almost any nut in the “extra” category, from chocolate-covered peanuts to butter toffee cashews. While I was developing this recipe for honey-roasted peanuts, he happily gobbled up batch after batch, regardless of whether or not the nuts were actually good. But, as I discovered, you really can’t go wrong when it comes to coating peanuts in honey and tossing them in a hot oven. The nuts will likely be delicious. So for this recipe, I decided to focus on dialing in the right proportions of ingredients and honing the execution.

Before I started testing, I picked up several different brands of honey-roasted peanuts and conducted a quick taste test. Surprisingly, I found that they all tasted wildly different from one another. One brand consisted of overly-roasted peanuts that had a bitter edge, another was dusted with too much salt, while the last had the most balanced salty-sweet coating. As a result, I decided to focus my testing on perfecting three factors: the peanuts, the coating, and the finish. 

For the peanuts themselves, I baked off batches of honey-roasted peanuts that contained either raw peanuts or store-bought roasted peanuts. It’s important to note that the extent of the roast on store-bought roasted peanuts varies, from peanuts that are barely toasted to ones that are too dark. My testing showed that the raw peanuts, despite being subsequently cooked in the oven, retained a beany taste. On the other hand, the pre-roasted peanuts took on a slightly bitter aftertaste. Therefore, to guarantee well-roasted peanuts, I suggest starting with raw blanched peanuts and lightly roasting them in an oven. 

Bowl of honey roasted peanuts on a textured green fabric
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

As for the coating, there are several ways to approach this: You can make a glaze containing egg whites; mix up a glaze with honey, a fat like butter or oil, sugar, and flavorings; or simply coat the peanuts with warmed honey. I decided to test the first two methods side-by-side, since I knew I wanted more than just honey as a coating. I liked the crunchy, somewhat airy shell on the nuts with the egg white coating, yet it masked the honey flavor. I ended up going with a glaze made with honey, potato starch, butter, oil, vanilla extract, sugar, and salt, which gave the nuts a shiny, crisp coating that lets the honey flavor come through. The glaze is infinitely adaptable, so I encourage you to play around with it by adding spices and other ingredients to taste, such as cocoa powder, dried rosemary, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper, or ground cinnamon. 

Once cool, I simply toss the nuts in a sugar-salt mix before digging in. Whether you decide to serve these as a snack, a pre-dinner bite, or with a late afternoon drink, these honey-roasted peanuts are easy to eat by the handful. 

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350°F (177°C). Spread peanuts evenly on rimmed baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 12 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. Decrease oven temperature to 300°F (148°C).

Overhead view of Peanuts spread out on a baking sheet
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Meanwhile, stir together 2 tablespoons sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl and set aside. Grease a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray and set aside. 

A glass bowl with sugar and salt on a white counter
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

In a medium saucepan or saucier, combine honey, potato starch, oil, butter, and vanilla extract, as well as remaining 1/4 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a sturdy heat-resistant spatula, until dry ingredients have dissolved and mixture is smooth, about 2 minutes. Off-heat, add peanuts and stir to combine until peanuts are thoroughly coated in honey mixture.

Four image collage of an overhead view of a saucepan on the stove. Clockwise from top left: ingredients added to pan; hand mixing melted honey mixture in pan; hand mixing in peanuts into pan; peanuts coated in pan.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Transfer honey-coated peanuts to prepared baking sheet, spreading them into an even layer. Bake peanuts until golden brown and toasted, about 25 minutes.

Honey roasted peanuts on a baking tray after being in the ovem
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Immediately transfer peanuts to a large bowl and let cool completely, stirring and scraping every few minutes with a sturdy spatula or spoon to prevent the nuts from sticking to the bowl and to each other, about 30 minutes (peanuts will be sticky at first but will harden as they cool). Once cool, break up any remaining clumps. Add sugar-salt mixture and toss to coat. Serve.

Honey roasted peanuts in a metal mixing bowl, tossed with sugar and salt.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

Rimmed baking sheets, heat-resistant spatula.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Honey-roasted peanuts can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Banana Cream Pie

Silky, creamy, and full of fresh banana flavor.

Side view of a slice of banana pie on a plate
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

I’ve made and consumed lots of pies, from lattice-topped fruit pies to baked custard pies and fruit tarts, but I have to admit I hadn't made all that many banana cream pies until I decided to develop this recipe. Now, after eating many, many slices of many different banana cream pies, I can safely conclude that life is far better with banana cream pie.

Recipes for banana cream pie first appeared in the late 19th century. One of the earliest iterations, which was published in 1901 in the Woman’s Exchange Cook Book, asks the cook to fill a baked pie crust with sliced bananas and powdered sugar then transfer the pie to the oven to soften the fruit. Five years later, a recipe in The Blue Ribbon Cook Book calls for a combination of sliced bananas and vanilla custard. That version, which remains popular to this day, is what I’ve stuck to for my recipe: a buttery pie crust filled with alternating layers of thinly-sliced ripe bananas and a rich vanilla pastry cream, and topped with sweetened whipped cream. 

For the pie crust, I stuck with Stella’s extra-flaky rendition, which stays tender and crisp thanks to a 1:1 ratio of flour to butter. I also made a version with a graham cracker crust, but found that I much preferred Stella’s crust; its buttery flavor is a better match for the filling of bananas and custard. 

With the custard, I tried versions of the pie with both pastry cream and banana pudding. My testing showed a clear preference among tasters for the vanilla-bean infused pastry cream and its light yet rich flavor. While the creamy banana pudding was a treat on its own, its cooked banana flavor overshadowed the fresh bananas in the pie.

A single slice of banana cream pie on a dark plate on a purple background
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

For the bananas, I call for layering thinly sliced rounds both on the bottom of the crust and in-between layers of pastry cream. It’s important to slice your bananas only when you’re ready to assemble the pie to prevent enzymatic browning, a series of chemical reactions that occurs in some foods when their cut surfaces are exposed to air. In addition, I discovered that tightly sandwiching them between layers of pastry cream kept any browning at bay, likely due to a lack of oxygen. However, once you cut into the pie, the bananas that are exposed to air will begin to brown. While this will affect their flavor and texture slightly, the effect is minimal, since only a portion of the banana slice is exposed.  

Making banana cream pie—any pie, really—takes time. I like to spread the prep out over the course of several days. I will cook the pastry cream and store it in the refrigerator, make and blind bake the pie crust and hold it at room temperature, then assemble and chill the pie. Once it’s ready to serve, I pile on butterscotch-y brown sugar whipped cream (which can also be made ahead of time). If you want, you can garnish the top with toasted coconut, chocolate shavings, or a drizzle of caramel, any of which would be welcome additions.

Starting in the center of the blind-baked crust, set down a single banana slice, then arrange concentric circles of banana slices around it in a single, even layer until you fully cover the bottom of the crust. 

4 image collage of an overhead view of a pie crust being filled with a layer of sliced bananas
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Using a small offset spatula, spread half of the pastry cream in an even layer on top of banana slices (banana slices should be fully covered). Repeat layering process with remaining bananas and cream. Place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the cream to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until filling is cold and set, at least 3 hours and up to 1 day. 

4 image collage. Overhead view, from top left: cream being added to top of banana layer; a single banana slice on top of the cream; a full layer of banana slices added to the pie; plastic wrapped pie resting on a baking tray.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

When ready to serve, top pie with whipped cream. Slice into wedges with a chef’s knife, carefully slide a pie server under the crust, making sure it reaches all the way to the tip of each wedge, and serve.

Angled view of banana cream pie, showcases off layers of crust, pie, and whipped cream
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Special Equipment

Small offset spatula.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Covered tightly with plastic wrap, banana cream pie can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

How to Stock a Filipino Pantry

Everything you need to know about the staple ingredients of Filipino cuisine.

The essential elements of a Filipino pantry arranged in front of a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Enter any Filipino kitchen and you’ll find a collection of common pantry items that are used to create the distinctive sour, sweet, and salty flavor profile of Filipino cuisine. There’s calamansi, our native citrus fruit, and vinegar, whose exact type will vary from household to household, for that ubiquitous acidic kick; soy sauce, patis (fish sauce), and bagoong (fermented seafood sauce or paste) to deliver a salty-umami punch; and various fruits and coconut products for adding sweetness. Together, these items unite Filipino kitchens despite the fact that the cuisine is also defined by marked differences due to regional taste preferences. 

To get you started, I put together a list of some of the most common ingredients you'll find in a basic Filipino pantry. Although you may be hard pressed to find some of these items even in well-stocked supermarkets, these staples are becoming more accessible due to the proliferation of Asian grocery stores and online-delivery outfits like Amazon, Weee!, and SarapNow. And once you have them on hand, you'll be able to whip up some of our most popular dishes with ease. 

Sawsawan and Other Seasonings

When you eat at any Filipino home or restaurant, you’ll notice small bowls or bottles containing vinegar, patis, bagoong, and soy sauce, as well as calamansi halves on the table. Collectively, these ingredients, or “galaxy of flavor-adjusters,” as food writer and cultural historian Doreen Fernandez calls them, are known as sawsawan. 

Sawsawan are used to fine-tune meals to each diner's individual taste. As Fernandez writes in Sarap: Essays on Philippine Food, “the diner cooperates and participates, and the creation is communal. The sawsawan thus transforms not only the taste, but also the relationship behind the experience.” Sawsawan are not dish-specific; you can use them individually or mix them together for a quick dipping sauce to customize your food. Popular combinations include toyomansi (soy sauce and calamansi), suka at toyo (vinegar and soy sauce), and suka at patis (vinegar and fish sauce). There are no recipes or ratios involved when swirling these together, it’s completely left to the diners’ discretion. 

The following ingredients are basic building blocks of almost every sawsawan and are also common flavorings found throughout Filipino cuisine. 

Fermented Seafood Products

Many cuisines throughout Asia rely on fermented seafood to flavor their food. In the Philippines, we primarily use bagoong and patis to provide a salty, umami-rich boost to our cooking. 

A bottle of Kamayan Shrimp paste placed next to a bottle of Rufina Fish Sauce
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Bagoong, which means “fermented” in Filipino, refers to a broad category of sauces and pastes made from fermented seafood. There’s two main types: bagoong isda and bagoong alamang. The former is a sauce made from fish and can be labeled bagoong monamon, bagoong dilis, bagoong balayan, or bagoong terong (the name indicates either the type of fish used or the sauce's place of origin). Bagoong alamang, on the other hand, is a chunky paste made from shrimp or krill. Ginisang bagoong—a popular variation of bagoong alamang that's sautéed with onion, garlic, vinegar, and sugar—is what I keep at home. Its sweeter, more complex flavor works well in a variety of dishes, like pinakbet, a hearty vegetable stew, and kare-kare, our version of (really good) curry. It’s also great when spread on unripe green mangoes for a salty-sour snack. 

Pungent patis “hits your nostrils” says Elizabeth Ann Besa-Quirino, a cookbook author, journalist, and food writer. The amber-colored liquid, which traditionally is a by-product of the bagoong fermentation process, has many uses in the Filipino kitchen—as a dipping sauce, as a source of salt, and as a flavoring agent. Besa-Quirino says that she often uses it instead of salt, a common practice for many Filipino cooks. Take sinigang (a refreshing sour soup) for example: if you scan the list of ingredients, you’ll notice there’s no salt; instead, the dish is finished with patis, which adds salinity as well as its own distinctive flavor.

Vinegar

If there’s one ingredient Filipinos can’t get enough of its vinegar. We use it to marinate, pickle, braise, stew, and season food. Historically, vinegar has been relied upon as a food preservative to ward off spoilage, which can happen fast in a tropical climate. There are three main types to choose from: cane vinegar, coconut vinegar, and palm vinegar. These vinegars come with varying levels of acidity as well as their own unique flavors and aromas.

Cane vinegar is the most commonly used vinegar in the Philippines and the most widely available abroad. There are two kinds available: white cane vinegar (or sukang maasim, which means “sour vinegar”) and sukang Iloco. White cane vinegar, made from fermented sugarcane syrup, is a good all-purpose vinegar, since its mild flavor works well in numerous applications. Sukang Iloco, which takes its name from the Ilocos region, is made from sugarcane molasses and has a slightly sweet flavor, reminiscent of sherry vinegar. I keep a bottle of each in my pantry but I find that I reach for white cane vinegar most of the time due to its versatility and flavor, which I became accustomed to growing up. 

A bottle of Datu Puti White Vinegar on a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

There are also two types of coconut vinegar: coconut palm vinegar (known as sukang tuba) and coconut water vinegar (or sukang niyog). Made from the sap of a coconut palm, sukang tuba is often used to make sinamak, a popular spiced vinegar steeped with onions, ginger, garlic, black pepper, and chiles. Yana Gilbuena, a Philippines-born chef and recipe developer, calls for it in her recipe for kinilaw, a bright dish of marinated raw fish. Sukang niyog is made by fermenting water from mature coconuts. Neither vinegar tastes overtly like coconut; they both have a slightly sweet aroma and a more assertive flavor profile in comparison to cane vinegar.

Palm vinegar, otherwise known as sukang Paombong (named after a town in the Bulacan province), is the most labor intensive to produce. As Fernandez writes in ​​Tikim, workers must shake or “kick the branch 20 times once a week for six to seven weeks” of a nipa palm to stimulate sap production for harvest. As the sap ferments, it continues to sour over time, becoming darker in color due to its high iron content. Flavorwise, it’s sweeter than coconut vinegar with a pleasant salinity.

If a dish calls for a specific vinegar, it’s best to source the vinegar indicated. However, most of the time, vinegars are used interchangeably, giving the cook leeway to use their preferred vinegar or whatever they have on hand. Gilbuena always uses coconut vinegar because it has a sweetness that she’s fond of, and cookbook author Marvin Gapultos is a fan of Datu Puti’s white sugarcane vinegar, which is ubiquitous in the Philippines. You can also substitute rice, apple cider, or white distilled vinegars. Arlyn Osborne, a recipe developer and food writer, likes rice vinegar for cooking, while Besa-Quirino uses apple cider vinegar, which she says mirrors the flavor of palm vinegar.

Soy Sauce

A bottle of Silver Swan Soy Sauce on a blue cloth
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Introduced by Chinese merchants, soy sauce is another staple ingredient that's used in a number of different ways: Filipinos use it as a marinade, a condiment, and a dipping sauce. It’s also one of the main ingredients in adobo, our national dish. We have our own version of soy sauce made from fermented soybeans, wheat, salt, and caramel coloring; it's thinner in body, darker in color, and saltier than Chinese light soy sauce or Japanese dark soy sauce. Much like vinegar, you can usually use whatever soy sauce you like, Filipino or otherwise. However, Besa-Quirino says she prefers using a Filipino brand like Silver Swan when cooking Filipino dishes because it tastes just like home.

Fresh Chiles

While we aren’t known for mouth-blistering flavors, chiles are present in many Filipino dishes. We like to use siling labuyo—small red chile peppers that pack a fiery punch. It’s quite difficult to source this pepper outside of the Philippines, so many recipes call for Thai chiles in its place, as they have a comparable spice level. Siling labuyo are typically diced up fine and mixed into various sawsawan like suka at toyo to make a spiced vinegar or added to meat-laden dishes like bicol express and sizzling sisig to cut through the richness. You’ll also see the chile leaves added to soups for a subtle peppery note. 

Green Chiles on a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Another chile we’re fond of is siling mahaba, also referred to as green finger chile. It has a moderate heat level and can be found in Filipino or Asian supermarkets. This slightly curly pepper is added whole to soups and stews for its nuanced heat and vegetal flavor. If you can't find siling mahaba, a jalapeño pepper or an Anaheim pepper works just as well.

Calamansi

Filipinos can’t get enough of tiny green calamansi, an unripe citrus fruit that's also known as calamondin, Philippine lemon, and Philippine lime. A hybrid of a mandarin and a kumquat, its flavor is one of a kind. Besa-Quirino says it’s “more piercingly sweet than a lemon,” while Gilbuena likens it to a “combination of tangerine with lemon.” 

Frozen calamansi juice
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik

Calamansi is primarily used as an ingredient in marinades or soups, in dipping sauces, and as a seasoning agent―freshly squeezed over pancit or fish―for a sour smack. It’s also common to see the juice used in sweet applications, from cakes and ice cream to cold drinks. The fruit itself is difficult to source in the US, and if you do find it, it’s likely already ripe. According to Gilbuena, you can get a close-ish approximation by mixing one part freshly squeezed lemon juice, one-half part freshly squeezed lime juice, and one-quarter part granulated sugar by volume. It’s worth keeping an eye out for frozen calamansi juice at a well-stocked Asian or Filipino market, which Gilbuena likes to use. Steer clear of bottled extracts, which contain a lot of preservatives. 

Banana Ketchup

Go to any Filipino store and you’ll see bottles of bright-red banana ketchup lining the shelves. Made with bananas, vinegar, and sugar, and dyed red to resemble its more well-known counterpart, banana ketchup was developed during World War II to fill a shortage left by traditional tomato ketchup. Just like its facsimile, banana ketchup has a bright, tangy, and sweet flavor but with a thicker, jelly-like consistency. 

A bottle of Jufran Banana Sauce on a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

You’ll find a number of brands on the market, including UFC, Papa, Jufran, Mafran, and Del Monte. The flavor profile of each differs slightly; some will be more salty or sweet and others less so. Spicy versions are also available if you like heat. Besa-Quirino, Gilbuena, Osborne, and I all prefer Jufran for its tangy-sweet flavor. You can use it just like tomato ketchup―as a condiment, served alongside tortang talong, fried chicken, or with eggs for breakfast (as Osborne prefers), and as an ingredient in Filipino spaghetti sauce.

Mang Tomas All-Purpose Sauce

A bottle of Mang Tomas All-Purpose Sauce on a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Mang Tomas All-Purpose Sauce, better known as lechon sauce, was originally developed as an accompaniment to lechon, the whole, spit-roasted suckling pig that serves as a centerpiece at Filipino parties. Created by Tomas de los Reyes, a famous lechonero in Quezon City (just north of the capital, Manila), this versatile condiment is made from pork liver, sugar, vinegar, breadcrumbs, and a blend of spices. Gilbuena describes the flavor as “earthy, salty, vinegary, and a little peppery.” Like Besa-Quirino, most Filipinos like to pair it with crispy lechon kawali or fried chicken for dipping. It’s best stored in the refrigerator after opening, where it’ll keep for no more than six months.

Achuete

A bottle of Achiote on a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Known as achuete in the Philippines, and annatto or achiote elsewhere, these small, dark red seeds arrived via the Manila Galleon trade, a global trade route that brought grains, fruits, vegetables, and dishes from Mexico to the Philippines between 1565 and 1815. Cooks prize annatto for the rich, orange-red color it lends to food along with its delicate, earthy, and peppery flavor. Seeds are either steeped in oil, which can be used on roasts or barbecues, or crushed for seamless blending into sauces for kare-kare and pancit palabok. You can find Mama Sita’s brand achuete powder, sold in handy 1/3-ounce packets, in Asian and Filipino markets. Stored away from light and heat in an airtight container at room temperature, both seeds and powder will keep for a long time. 

Aromatics

Garlic, onion, and tomato form the basis of Filipino cooking. Many dishes begin by browning garlic, adding onions and tomatoes and cooking them until soft and translucent, and finishing with meat or seafood and vegetables. Outside of this trinity, each ingredient finds its way into other dishes.

Tomatoes, ginger, garlic, and a red onion on a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Garlic is integral to the flavor of Filipino dishes and is used without restraint. “The more garlic we have, the better,” Besa-Quirino says. We fry it up crisp to use as a garnish, mix it with vinegar for sawsawan, serve it raw atop lumpiang sariwa (fresh vegetables encased in a crepe-like wrapper drizzled with a savory-sweet sauce), and add it to fried rice. As far as onions go, we like to use red onions, which become sweeter than other kinds when cooked, and thinly sliced scallions for garnishing. Tomatoes are used to provide acidity, as in sinigang, or sliced and eaten fresh with fish. Recipes will often call for plum tomatoes due to their firm texture and low water content. 

Another popular aromatic is ginger. It’s stirred into sawsawan, added to soups like arroz caldo, and mixed into palapa, a spicy-sweet condiment made with chile, onion, and coconut that’s widely consumed in Mindanao, the second-largest island in the archipelago whose food has roots in Arabic and Malay cooking. 

Banana

Fiilipinos favor a variety of banana called Saba. Plump and stout with a firmer, starchier texture, Saba bananas have a complex, lightly sweet flavor that has hints of peach and lemon. This cultivar is famously used in banana ketchup and can be found in many other applications, both raw and cooked. It’s great in turon, a crispy, twice-fried banana roll, and halo-halo, a sweet, shaved-ice dessert. It’s challenging to track down fresh Sabas in the US, but frozen ones are readily available in Filipino markets. Ripe plantains are the closest substitute, given their flavor profile and starchy texture.  

Saba bananas in syrup
Rezel Kealoha

Filipino cooking also makes use of the banana blossom or heart―the magenta-colored flower that grows at the end of the banana fruit cluster. The tough outer layers are quite fibrous, but  peeling those away reveals the lighter-colored inner blossom, which has a mild, nutty flavor. The blossom can be prepared raw or cooked: in salads, added to soups, and stewed in coconut milk. You may be able to find fresh banana blossom in the produce section of Asian markets, which benefits from a quick soak in salted water to remove its bitter sap and prevent discoloration. If you can’t procure a fresh one, you can substitute canned blossoms in brine; just rinse them before using.   

Filipino cuisine uses a lot of banana leaves. The plant’s thick, wavy leaves are versatile: They can be wrapped around foods prior to steaming, baking, or grilling, and used to line pans for rice cakes like biko, bibingka, and many other native sweets. Both uses impart a distinctly tropical flavor and aroma to the final dish. It can be hard to track down fresh leaves in the US, however you can easily purchase frozen banana leaves in Asian markets as well as online.

Coconut

A jar of Coconut gel in syrup (Nata De Coco) on a blue background
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

The coconut palm is so revered in Filipino culture that we often refer to it as the “tree of life.” It’s used to make food, drink, fuel, hats, furniture, and even housing. “It’s our giving tree,” Gilbuena says. When it comes to food, the list of coconut products we use is endless. There’s coconut milk, cream, and water, used to flavor many dishes, from soups like binakol and stews like bicol express to desserts like buko pandan and tambo-tambo. We ferment coconut water to make coconut vinegar (as described above) and to make nata de coco, or coconut jelly, a chewy Filipino speciality that’s eaten as dessert on its own or mixed into fruit salads and halo-halo. We also use the soft, tender flesh of young coconuts, which is called buko, as well as niyog, the hard mature meat, in many desserts. In Mindanao, the flesh is burned to contribute a complex sweetness to signature dishes. Then, there’s macapuno, or coconut sport strings, a favorite of Gilbuena. The strings are preserved young coconut strips made from a variety of coconut that has soft, jelly-like flesh and contains very little water. Sweeter than your typical coconut, it’s commonly used in desserts. Macapuno can be found in Filipino or Asian markets and online

Ube

A packet of frozen Lucia brand Purple Yam on a blue backdrop
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Filipinos are obsessed with ube, our ubiquitous purple yam. This tuberous root, whose vividly purple flesh tastes like a cross between vanilla and pistachio, should not be confused with Okinawan sweet potatoes or taro, which have different flavors and textures. The smooth flesh is boiled and mashed to add flavor and color to many sweet treats, like ube halaya (purple yam jam) and ube ice cream. Although it can be particularly hard to find the root fresh, ube is available in other forms: powdered, frozen, and as an extract. Ube extract adds a deeper, more concentrated flavor to desserts. Frozen grated ube is easy to use; simply defrost it first. Powdered ube, on the other hand, can be trickier to work with since it must be reconstituted with liquid first, and textures can vary between brands.

Dried Noodles

Two types of dry noodles stacked on top of each other
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

Introduced by Chinese traders, noodles come in all forms. Varieties include bihon (rice vermicelli), yellow-hued canton, sotanghon (mung bean thread noodles), round cornstarch, miki (thick egg noodles), and misua (a thin wheat noodle also known as Chinese vermicelli); each one varies in terms of taste and texture. Pancit dishes will typically call for a specific noodle. Two popular examples are pancit bihon, which uses bihon noodles as its foundation, and pancit palabok, which is prepared with cornstarch or rice noodles. Any well-stocked Asian or Filipino market will have these on hand. To start, I recommend purchasing Excellent brand’s bihon and canton noodles for your pantry―both are high-quality noodles that can be used in an array of dishes.

Rice

Filipinos eat a lot of rice, so much so that a meal wouldn’t be complete without it. If you can only stock one type of rice, then fragrant, long-grain jasmine should be your go-to; it’s what you’ll serve with a meal. If your pantry has some wiggle room, add short-grain glutinous or sticky rice to your repertoire; it’s great for making bringhe, our version of paella, and a whole range of sweetened rice cakes like biko. If you want to go above and beyond, pick up a bag of pinipig―flattened immature grains of glutinous rice―which, when toasted, serve as a crunchy topping for desserts.

a side angle of biko on a platter
Vicky Wasik