“Hot Girl Food” or Not—Tinned Fish Is the Best Fish

Chef Chris McDade remembers the tinned fish of his youth. Growing up in Georgia, the go-to snack on family fishing trips was the simple, sublime trifecta of canned oysters, saltines, and hot sauce—the rich, briny oysters balanced by the sturdy, salty c…

Chef Chris McDade remembers the tinned fish of his youth. Growing up in Georgia, the go-to snack on family fishing trips was the simple, sublime trifecta of canned oysters, saltines, and hot sauce—the rich, briny oysters balanced by the sturdy, salty crunch of the crackers and a vinegary zing of heat. Lest this memory sound too precious, these were not top-shelf shooters.

“The ones we used were like 79 cents for a tin. But they were easy to pack in and easy to pack out. And delicious,” says McDade.

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Let’s Eat France!

Of all the books I own on French cuisine, Let’s Eat France is one of my favorites. First up, the book is huge. I don’t mean in terms of scope, which it is. But physically the book is enormous. Think the size of the tablet listing five of the ten commandments, and just as heavy. The book is 13+ inches (33cm) tall and clocks in…

Of all the books I own on French cuisine, Let’s Eat France is one of my favorites. First up, the book is huge. I don’t mean in terms of scope, which it is. But physically the book is enormous. Think the size of the tablet listing five of the ten commandments, and just as heavy. The book is 13+ inches (33cm) tall and clocks in at 5 1/2 pounds (2,5kg). Let’s Eat France certainly merits the heft; each page is crammed with interesting information, well laid out for reading, with plenty of places on the 431 pages for sidebars, anecdotes, photos, charts, asides, maps, and recipes.

You don’t often come across books on French foods that are this much fun. The French certainly have a jovial attitude about food, but usually in the written world, there’s more reverence than irreverence. There’s a lot of like about French food it’s fun to see someone like François-Régis Gaudry, and his friends who contributed material, have fun with the topic.

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